Want to make this cool and sinister looking Superhero mask?
You can make this from four sheets of printer paper, some scrap card, Mod Podge, contact adhesive and black paint.
I have to be honest with you, this is not the easiest of my plans. It was designed as a freebie, so I’ve taken the liberty of including some smaller joining pieces than I have used on my other plans.
Having said that, it’s eminently doable, if you follow the instructions. The pale grey version has been made specifically so that you can see exactly the shape you need to push as you build the mask.
Just fill in your name and email to download the Superhero Mask Plan.
You will be emailed a link to the PDF, right-click on the plan and “save as” to save the file to your own machine.
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Here are the full instructions (which are included in the PDF)
There are instruction videos on my YouTube channel, with all of the information broken down into the chapters you see here. Polyfacet’s YouTube Channel
Metal ruler Craft knife and new blades Scissors
Ballpoint pen Small paintbrush ¼” or ½”
Cutting mat / surface Tool to spread glue (a lolly stick will do)
Printer card – The best combination to make the Batman Mask is to print the pattern on 250gsm and bond that to 300gsm card.
Or use Recycled cardboard – print the pattern on paper and bond the printed sheet to it. (Detailed instructions follow in the next section.)
Mod Podge or acrylic varnish can be used to fix your pattern to cardboard, protect and reinforce your mask.
Elmers glue or PVA is not a good substitute for the above.
Spray adhesive can be used to fix your pattern to cardboard.
Contact adhesive is the best way to fix your mask together, forever. The joins are under stress, so we need that “instant grab”
How you use each one is covered in the following sections.
Video Guide to Tools and Materials
3.Bonding the printed pattern to card
Mod Podge is by far the best, no matter what your combination of paper and card.
You can use spray adhesive. This is quite messy and should be done outside your living area – follow the instructions on the can.
You can use acrylic varnish to bond your pattern.
Whatever you are using…
Cut roughly around the pattern pieces and position them (dry) on your card. Draw around them (pencil or biro) to mark where to apply the adhesive.
Coat the pack of your pattern piece in Mod Podge and position it on the card, making sure it’s pressed down flat and the edges are sealed or
Cover the marked area in acrylic varnish, so that it is wet but not soaked. It dries fast, so you may have to re-cover some areas. Position the pattern piece fast,while the varnish is wet. Start at an edge so you don’t trap any bubbles. Smooth the whole thing down with your fingertips.
If it is wet enough, a little bit of varnish will seep out from the edges. Smooth it down, pressing down the edges until the whole thing is tack dry.
It may curl a little bit but it will soon be dry enough to be weighed down. A slight curl is not a problem if the card is thick enough. Don’t wet any areas with varnish that you don’t need to – the dry areas act as a frame to help it dry flat.
The sheet of numbered fixing tabs is best printed out on 250gsm card.
If you can only print it on paper, bond it to thin card.
Video – Bonding your printed sheets to card
Use a really sharp craft knife to cut out the pattern pieces, right along the solid black outer lines.
The more accurately you cut, the better your mask will turn out. There are no inward cuts on this plan but you do need to take care with Piece 1, when you cut around the numbers 5-11.
The video guide has tips for accurate, safe cutting
Apply a coat of Mod Podge or acrylic varnish to the outside of the pieces after you cut them out. Dry card is easily scuffed and marked – it will protect the surface and it makes the card much less likely to crack when you are making your folds.
Coat the printed side of the numbered tab sheet with Mod Podge or acrylic varnish.
5.Scoring and Creasing
Score – (You can do this before or after you cut out the pattern).
Use a straight edge and ballpoint pen to score along all of the 4mm dashed lines. Press hard. A coloured pen is best, so that you can still see the dashed lines.
Crease – (Always after cutting)
Fold along the scored lines. Fold towards you “valley fold”, unless the line is marked “RIDGE”; for these lines, fold away from you.
For small or narrow folds, use a straight edge to push one side up, while you hold the other side down with your fingers or another straight edge.
Take care not to crease the pieces anywhere creases are not indicated.
Some of the folds will not allow you to make a “hard” fold – just pinch them gently so that the card will flex in the right direction in those places.
Video Guide to Scoring and Creasing
6.Numbered Tabs and Building the mask
The final sheet of the mask plan is a sheet of numbered tabs, for best results, you have already given the printed side a coat of Mod Podge or Acylic Varnish.
Score the sheet right along the horizontal dotted lines and fold, printed face inwards, unless a ridge fold is indicated .
Cut out the tabs and fix one side of the tab only to the flat pieces. Mod Podge, superglue or any other glue is fine to stick the first half.
It’s always better to add the tabs to the pieces while they are flat, rather than once they are part of the mask being made.
Check you’ve scored and creased the piece before you add tabs. You have a choice of two positions – choose either.
Cut out just a few at a time and stick them on in the matching positions. Use the numbers to find the accurate positions for the tabs on the dotted areas.
Once they’re completely dry, fold them inwards.
Coat the back of each numbered tab and the remaining dotted areas on the printed pattern with a thin, even coat of Contact adhesive. You can use a small metal spatula, a piece of card cut to shape or a lolly stick. Allow the glue to dry completely before you build your mask.
Start at number 1. Look at the outside to make the join, pressing it together firmly before you press down the tab firmly at the back.
Always check how the piece fits before you commit yourself – some pieces will need a little tweak or change of angle.
Try to look ahead a little at how your pieces will match up.
It is not vital to follow the numbered order.
Once the mask is complete, it’s a good idea to give another coat of Mod podge or varnish, sealing the cut edges.
Video – Building a Mask with the Numbered Tab Sheet
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